Monday, June 30, 2008
travel
Well, we are on our way back to the US. Today, we left Pemba and are on the mainland in Dar-es-Salaam, waiting for our morning flight. I didn't get hardly any chance to post stories and pictures, sorry about that. I'll post some more when we are back in the US.
Wednesday, June 25, 2008
pics from big Juma's wedding
No time to write, but here are some pictures from the wedding:
And the three of us crammed into the back of the car along with the bride and groom. Too weird. But the groom insisted we ride with him when he picked up the bride.
And the three of us crammed into the back of the car along with the bride and groom. Too weird. But the groom insisted we ride with him when he picked up the bride.
Sunday, June 22, 2008
Things have been both good and worse this past week. The first part of the week, I managed to get 17 surveys with patients and a good interview with a man at a AIDS support organization. I arranged with him to have him help me recruit several more patients to my survey, and we set up an appointment for Saturday. So that was great.
But then on Thursday, I woke up with a head cold, and I've been suffering from it ever since. Luckily, I didn't have any work appointments for Thursday or Friday, and Justin was great enough to take Juma so I could sleep and rest for two days. My big day of surveying patients on Saturday came, and Justin made all the arrangements to get food and drink to give them as a thanks. He also hauled 16 kilos of rice to the organization's office, only to find that all the 12 people whom I thought were there waiting for me were waiting for something else entirely. The guy I made arrangements with finally showed up an hour late, and told me the people I should talk to are all at a seminar in the center of town at the old fort. So I called up our friend who drives a taxi and had him haul all the rice and refreshments, along with me and my research assistant downtown. There were a good two dozen people there at the seminar--but I'd already surveyed every single one of them. So that was a gigantic bummer and frustration. But everything with my research had been going really well up to that point, so I guess I was due for a "TIA" (This is Africa) day.
Later that same afternoon, I had set up an in-depth interview with a man who is HIV+ and heads a support organization (a different one). When I showed up at the appointed time and place, he wasn't there, so I called him (thank goodness cell phones made it to Pemba!). He had suddenly gone out of town, and hadn't called me to cancel because he phone was all out of money (all cell phones use pre-paid cards here). Second big bummer of the day. So I dragged myself and Justin and Juma and my assistant all around town to get nothing done, all the while feeling like crap because of my cold. Ugh.
That evening, we were invited to a maulid (a Koran signing ceremony with boys playing drums, reciting, and dancing tamely) to celebrate a friend's nieces wedding, so we got all decked out in our nice clothes and made our appearance. All the women go to these, and get dressed up in dresses that are shiny, shimmery, and/or sheer, and usually pastel. Weddings are one of the few chances women have to look all nice and not have to put on a buibui (the black robe) to cover it up. I'll post a picture of me in my fancy Pemban dress (imported from Oman) later.
Today is our best friend, Juma's, wedding. I'll post more about it and some pictures of it later. He's our oldest friend here and takes his responsibilities as Juma's namesake very seriously.
But then on Thursday, I woke up with a head cold, and I've been suffering from it ever since. Luckily, I didn't have any work appointments for Thursday or Friday, and Justin was great enough to take Juma so I could sleep and rest for two days. My big day of surveying patients on Saturday came, and Justin made all the arrangements to get food and drink to give them as a thanks. He also hauled 16 kilos of rice to the organization's office, only to find that all the 12 people whom I thought were there waiting for me were waiting for something else entirely. The guy I made arrangements with finally showed up an hour late, and told me the people I should talk to are all at a seminar in the center of town at the old fort. So I called up our friend who drives a taxi and had him haul all the rice and refreshments, along with me and my research assistant downtown. There were a good two dozen people there at the seminar--but I'd already surveyed every single one of them. So that was a gigantic bummer and frustration. But everything with my research had been going really well up to that point, so I guess I was due for a "TIA" (This is Africa) day.
Later that same afternoon, I had set up an in-depth interview with a man who is HIV+ and heads a support organization (a different one). When I showed up at the appointed time and place, he wasn't there, so I called him (thank goodness cell phones made it to Pemba!). He had suddenly gone out of town, and hadn't called me to cancel because he phone was all out of money (all cell phones use pre-paid cards here). Second big bummer of the day. So I dragged myself and Justin and Juma and my assistant all around town to get nothing done, all the while feeling like crap because of my cold. Ugh.
That evening, we were invited to a maulid (a Koran signing ceremony with boys playing drums, reciting, and dancing tamely) to celebrate a friend's nieces wedding, so we got all decked out in our nice clothes and made our appearance. All the women go to these, and get dressed up in dresses that are shiny, shimmery, and/or sheer, and usually pastel. Weddings are one of the few chances women have to look all nice and not have to put on a buibui (the black robe) to cover it up. I'll post a picture of me in my fancy Pemban dress (imported from Oman) later.
Today is our best friend, Juma's, wedding. I'll post more about it and some pictures of it later. He's our oldest friend here and takes his responsibilities as Juma's namesake very seriously.
Tuesday, June 17, 2008
an outing
I promised pictures, so here are some from a day we visited Juma's favorite spot--the old colonial-era dock in the mangrove swamp. We visited twice that day, once at nearly high tide and once at low tide. We don't take pictures much here, because people are generally suspicious of our intentions of taking pictures of them or the surroundings. But here at the dock there was no one around, so I took the opportunity to snap some pictures of us.
These pictures are good to show you how very green it is, as well as the kind of clothes we wear here. In the backgrounds, you can see mangrove, banana, mango, and other trees, as well as some colonial-era ruins (a customs house for the port). Juma is in long sleeves and long pants, shoes and socks, despite the heat, to protect against mosquito bites.
We chose button-up shirts because they are lighter than T-shirts and easier to wash by hand and dry by sun, too. Justin wears button-ups and long pants because that is what men wear here (only boys wear shorts).
The black gown I am in is called a buibui, named after the word for spider (because it's black), and I wear my regular clothes underneath it. I only wear the buibui and head cover when I'm outside the house (and I usually throw on a head cover if any males come to the house to visit, too). I don't have to do this, but, hey, "when in Rome." Many people stare at me, yes, but they would stare at me anyway, and most people appreciate that I try to dress in the local style, and respectfully modest. And to answer your other question I'm assuming you are asking, yes, it is hot. Which is why I generally am drenched in sweat when I get home from anywhere, and take a quick, cool shower. But even without the extra clothes, I'd be drenched in sweat. It's hot and it's humid and that's life here.
It is rather strange being back and remembering all the things that were weird or uncomfortable for us the first couple times we came, but are totally normal now. Like the other day when I got back from a long day's work, and it was hot and icky and the electricty was out, so there was no fan to cool me off. And the one thing that sounded best to me was a cup of hot, steaming ginger tea. So I got one, and, man, did that hit the spot. It wasn't until the next day that I realized how terribly odd it would be for me to want a cup of hot, spicy tea on a hot day in the US.
There are lots of other things, too, that I have been trying to remember, things that used to be weird. Like saving zip lock bags for reuse. And washing clothes by hand. And sleeping under a mosquito net. Finding spiders have built webs on our drying clothes during the night. Showering from a bucket of cold water (we have running water, but sometimes I use the bucket, just 'cause it's there). Eating with our hands instead of a fork. Eating fish with the head and fins still on. Listening to people speak Swahili and actually comphrending it.
Well, I best be off to mommy-duty so Justin can go play basketball.
These pictures are good to show you how very green it is, as well as the kind of clothes we wear here. In the backgrounds, you can see mangrove, banana, mango, and other trees, as well as some colonial-era ruins (a customs house for the port). Juma is in long sleeves and long pants, shoes and socks, despite the heat, to protect against mosquito bites.
We chose button-up shirts because they are lighter than T-shirts and easier to wash by hand and dry by sun, too. Justin wears button-ups and long pants because that is what men wear here (only boys wear shorts).
The black gown I am in is called a buibui, named after the word for spider (because it's black), and I wear my regular clothes underneath it. I only wear the buibui and head cover when I'm outside the house (and I usually throw on a head cover if any males come to the house to visit, too). I don't have to do this, but, hey, "when in Rome." Many people stare at me, yes, but they would stare at me anyway, and most people appreciate that I try to dress in the local style, and respectfully modest. And to answer your other question I'm assuming you are asking, yes, it is hot. Which is why I generally am drenched in sweat when I get home from anywhere, and take a quick, cool shower. But even without the extra clothes, I'd be drenched in sweat. It's hot and it's humid and that's life here.
It is rather strange being back and remembering all the things that were weird or uncomfortable for us the first couple times we came, but are totally normal now. Like the other day when I got back from a long day's work, and it was hot and icky and the electricty was out, so there was no fan to cool me off. And the one thing that sounded best to me was a cup of hot, steaming ginger tea. So I got one, and, man, did that hit the spot. It wasn't until the next day that I realized how terribly odd it would be for me to want a cup of hot, spicy tea on a hot day in the US.
There are lots of other things, too, that I have been trying to remember, things that used to be weird. Like saving zip lock bags for reuse. And washing clothes by hand. And sleeping under a mosquito net. Finding spiders have built webs on our drying clothes during the night. Showering from a bucket of cold water (we have running water, but sometimes I use the bucket, just 'cause it's there). Eating with our hands instead of a fork. Eating fish with the head and fins still on. Listening to people speak Swahili and actually comphrending it.
Well, I best be off to mommy-duty so Justin can go play basketball.
Sunday, June 15, 2008
electricity is back!
Sorry about the long pause in posting. The entire island is dependent on a tanker to bring oil to the island so they can burn the oil to make electricity. And as the island waits for the tanker, the electricity is always rationed. We'd have electricity for a few hours in the wee hours of the morning (like 3am to 6am sometimes, or 11pm to 1am) but never when it was useful. And never when I could use the internet cafe. But the tanker finally arrived today, thank goodness, so the food in our fridge can stop going bad, I can make more copies of my survey for the 20 new patients I'll get tomorrow, and I can update you all about what's been going on.
Research-wise, I've gotten almost 30 survey participants, which is great, and I've talked to a few doctors, nurses, and activists about the HIV/AIDS situation here. I'll get more tomorrow and Wednesday, so I'm feeling good about things. I've been making some contacts, too, and met a fellow American public health student who is also doing HIV work, but on the other island.
She was stuck in Pemba today because of a full flight (those 12-seater planes fill up fast), so we showed her around the town. Not that there's all that much to see. I took her to my haunts: the hospital and HIV/AIDS center, but no one was in, as it's Sunday. Justin showed us around his 'hood, the Archives and history Museum, which was quite well done and cool. While there, it began to rain really hard. You know, those tropical non-rainy season rains that just come down loud and fast. So we waited at the archives and munched on a wonderfully juicy and delicious mango and some sugar cane, and drank young coconut juice. Mmm, mmm, mmm. There are certain perks to living on a tropical island in the Indian Ocean.
Once the rain let up a bit, it was Juma's turn to pick the destination to show off Chake Chake (the town) to our guest, who, incidentally, is also named Sarah. Juma picked his still-favorite spot, the dock where the crabs are. This time, we spotted some new species. And since we're not biologists, we call the new species "the blue ones," "the black ones with the white dots and orange claws," and "the ones with the red claws." Scientific, no?
Juma was supremely excited to have another English-speaker to talk to, and he told her stories almost non-stop. If she wasn't in her 20s, I think Juma might've asked her out. He is still having trouble adjusting and is unwilling to play with the other kids here, but he's having a good time overall. Tonight, he quite contently showed me the suction cups on the octopus leg he was holding before he popped it into his mouth. "Mmm, I loooove octopus."
As for Justin, he's started playing basketball again. He scored four baskets for his team yesterday before injuring his toe and limping home. His friends here come visit every day, and he has been extremely supportive of me in my work. He even ran out and bought kilo after kilo of rice for me to give to my interview participants, lugging 25 kilos on his back across town. He's the best.
Yesterday, we decided we needed a break from the work so we took off to the north end of the island to one of the only beaches. It was relaxing and fun to swim and just soak up some sun (never mind that I was wearing shorts and a T-shirt over my swimsuit because there were so many Pembans around). It was our half-way-through-the-trip vacation, and much needed. We just couldn't be here and not spend a day at a beach.
We hope all is well with you.
Research-wise, I've gotten almost 30 survey participants, which is great, and I've talked to a few doctors, nurses, and activists about the HIV/AIDS situation here. I'll get more tomorrow and Wednesday, so I'm feeling good about things. I've been making some contacts, too, and met a fellow American public health student who is also doing HIV work, but on the other island.
She was stuck in Pemba today because of a full flight (those 12-seater planes fill up fast), so we showed her around the town. Not that there's all that much to see. I took her to my haunts: the hospital and HIV/AIDS center, but no one was in, as it's Sunday. Justin showed us around his 'hood, the Archives and history Museum, which was quite well done and cool. While there, it began to rain really hard. You know, those tropical non-rainy season rains that just come down loud and fast. So we waited at the archives and munched on a wonderfully juicy and delicious mango and some sugar cane, and drank young coconut juice. Mmm, mmm, mmm. There are certain perks to living on a tropical island in the Indian Ocean.
Once the rain let up a bit, it was Juma's turn to pick the destination to show off Chake Chake (the town) to our guest, who, incidentally, is also named Sarah. Juma picked his still-favorite spot, the dock where the crabs are. This time, we spotted some new species. And since we're not biologists, we call the new species "the blue ones," "the black ones with the white dots and orange claws," and "the ones with the red claws." Scientific, no?
Juma was supremely excited to have another English-speaker to talk to, and he told her stories almost non-stop. If she wasn't in her 20s, I think Juma might've asked her out. He is still having trouble adjusting and is unwilling to play with the other kids here, but he's having a good time overall. Tonight, he quite contently showed me the suction cups on the octopus leg he was holding before he popped it into his mouth. "Mmm, I loooove octopus."
As for Justin, he's started playing basketball again. He scored four baskets for his team yesterday before injuring his toe and limping home. His friends here come visit every day, and he has been extremely supportive of me in my work. He even ran out and bought kilo after kilo of rice for me to give to my interview participants, lugging 25 kilos on his back across town. He's the best.
Yesterday, we decided we needed a break from the work so we took off to the north end of the island to one of the only beaches. It was relaxing and fun to swim and just soak up some sun (never mind that I was wearing shorts and a T-shirt over my swimsuit because there were so many Pembans around). It was our half-way-through-the-trip vacation, and much needed. We just couldn't be here and not spend a day at a beach.
We hope all is well with you.
Thursday, June 05, 2008
mosquitoes, crabs, and acting out
It's fun and interesting being back in Pemba. We recognize so many people, and they remember us, too. It seems that very little has changed; most of the people work in the same shops, and all the shops are still there. The food costs a little more money, but is still quite cheap (for us). All the married women have at least one more kid, and just can't figure out why we haven't provided Juma a sibling yet. Everyone here wants lots of kids--many have around 10.
I met the perfect contact for my research, and he's helping me out a lot. I was pretty intimidated coming here and just trying to start my project, but I feel like things are working out well. This time, I am researching medications for HIV/AIDS, such as the barriers to taking them, how people access them, etc. Partly because of this, I've finally been given a nickname: Bi Kidawa. It means Little Ms. Medicine. I like the name a lot, and am proud to have a nickname. Anyone who is anyone has a nickname or two. Also, I am starting Arabic lessons tonight. The teacher is a woman in the neighborhood who teaches children to read the Quran. Should be fun.
Juma is adjusting. Slowly. He's feeling the culture shock, and has so far refused to make friends of the kids in the neighborhood. He gets along with Justin's friends fine, but is too scared to hang out with children because he forgot his Swahili. He's eating the food well enough (he's always been a small eater), and is fine with his mosquito net, his strange clothes (always long-sleeve button-ups, long pants, shoes and socks, even in the heat, to protect against mosquitoes), and the house.
His favorite activities are playing video games (in the house), going on evening walks to buy bread and octopus (his favorite food here!), and looking for crabs in the mangrove swamp at the end of the ocean. We snapped some pictures of crab-finding at both low tide and high tide; we will post some as soon as possible.
Justin is also doing well. His old friends have invited him to play basketball once again, and he is a wonderful stay-at-home dad for Juma. I have to go!
I met the perfect contact for my research, and he's helping me out a lot. I was pretty intimidated coming here and just trying to start my project, but I feel like things are working out well. This time, I am researching medications for HIV/AIDS, such as the barriers to taking them, how people access them, etc. Partly because of this, I've finally been given a nickname: Bi Kidawa. It means Little Ms. Medicine. I like the name a lot, and am proud to have a nickname. Anyone who is anyone has a nickname or two. Also, I am starting Arabic lessons tonight. The teacher is a woman in the neighborhood who teaches children to read the Quran. Should be fun.
Juma is adjusting. Slowly. He's feeling the culture shock, and has so far refused to make friends of the kids in the neighborhood. He gets along with Justin's friends fine, but is too scared to hang out with children because he forgot his Swahili. He's eating the food well enough (he's always been a small eater), and is fine with his mosquito net, his strange clothes (always long-sleeve button-ups, long pants, shoes and socks, even in the heat, to protect against mosquitoes), and the house.
His favorite activities are playing video games (in the house), going on evening walks to buy bread and octopus (his favorite food here!), and looking for crabs in the mangrove swamp at the end of the ocean. We snapped some pictures of crab-finding at both low tide and high tide; we will post some as soon as possible.
Justin is also doing well. His old friends have invited him to play basketball once again, and he is a wonderful stay-at-home dad for Juma. I have to go!
Monday, June 02, 2008
pemba
Wow, it took me only 30 minutes to get to the site. Sheesh.
Well, we arrived safely in Pemba on Friday afternoon, after traveling by 4 planes (including one that only fit 5 passengers) and for 45 hours. We're still recovering from the jet lag (Juma thinks one AM to 5 AM is day time).
The best part about being back is seeing our old friends. They had all but given up hope of seeing us again, since we are a year late, so were extra pleased to see we returned to their obscure corner of the earth.
It's the "cool" season now, so we are sweating profusely and shower twice a day to deal with the heat. We moved into our same old house as in 2006, and rehired our old cook, The Woman Who Talks 10 Miles a Minute. It's good Swahili-listening practice, that's for sure.
I best be off. Later (as soon as the electricity and the internet connection work out for us.)
Well, we arrived safely in Pemba on Friday afternoon, after traveling by 4 planes (including one that only fit 5 passengers) and for 45 hours. We're still recovering from the jet lag (Juma thinks one AM to 5 AM is day time).
The best part about being back is seeing our old friends. They had all but given up hope of seeing us again, since we are a year late, so were extra pleased to see we returned to their obscure corner of the earth.
It's the "cool" season now, so we are sweating profusely and shower twice a day to deal with the heat. We moved into our same old house as in 2006, and rehired our old cook, The Woman Who Talks 10 Miles a Minute. It's good Swahili-listening practice, that's for sure.
I best be off. Later (as soon as the electricity and the internet connection work out for us.)
Tuesday, May 27, 2008
stressed
Tomorrow is the big day, both for us--we're driving to San Francisco then flying to LA then Chicago then London then Dar-es-Salaam then Pemba--and for Justin's mom Vicki--she gets her pathology report from the specialist. Hopefully, she'll have those results before we actually get on the first airplane, so we can hear about it before our marathon trip.
It's been pretty stressful here, what with trying to pack
and get all our medications and immunizations, move out of our rooms that have been home for the past 10 months, as well spend as much time as possible with Vicki.
Poor Juma has been a little neglected, but he doesn't feel it much because when we are so busy, he gets to watch extra Jimmy Neutron and The Backyardigans. We also give him lots of extra hugs.
We've also invited Justin's brother's family over a lot, to spend time with them too, before we go. Which means extra cooking, but that's cool, because Justin and I have discovered we love cooking together. (The dishes, not so much.)
Today's the day to go shopping for all the last minute things, like cheap jewelry for gifts; packets of oatmeal for Juma's breakfasts; ziplock bags for all sorts of purposes; earplugs to block out the 4:30am calls to prayer from the next-door mosque; and photo printer ink so we can give friends copies of the photos we take (there is no place to develop digital photos in Pemba, and no one owns a camera).
The next blog post will likely be from Pemba!
It's been pretty stressful here, what with trying to pack
and get all our medications and immunizations, move out of our rooms that have been home for the past 10 months, as well spend as much time as possible with Vicki.
Poor Juma has been a little neglected, but he doesn't feel it much because when we are so busy, he gets to watch extra Jimmy Neutron and The Backyardigans. We also give him lots of extra hugs.
We've also invited Justin's brother's family over a lot, to spend time with them too, before we go. Which means extra cooking, but that's cool, because Justin and I have discovered we love cooking together. (The dishes, not so much.)
Today's the day to go shopping for all the last minute things, like cheap jewelry for gifts; packets of oatmeal for Juma's breakfasts; ziplock bags for all sorts of purposes; earplugs to block out the 4:30am calls to prayer from the next-door mosque; and photo printer ink so we can give friends copies of the photos we take (there is no place to develop digital photos in Pemba, and no one owns a camera).
The next blog post will likely be from Pemba!
Saturday, May 24, 2008
dramatic
I had this plan, see. When we were planning on going to Tanzania for a year, I wanted to shave my head.
It's cool, it's easy, and since I cover my head with a veil while in Zanzibar, it doesn't much matter what it looks like.
Yes, shave my head.
No, not like Britney Spears. I thought of it first. And once she did that, it turned my mind against it.
But there was still the problem of hair. You see, hair is not a good thing in Tanzania for me. The shower water 1) is freezing cold and 2) comes out in a tiny trickle. So it takes 20 minutes to get all my hair wet, even when it's only above my shoulders, and then another 20 minutes to rinse the shampoo out. (And do you know how hard it is to find shampoo for my hair type in Africa?) Forget about conditioner. By the time I get it washed, I am chilled to the bone. It's so difficult that I only washed it every few days. So when I did wash it, it was nasty, which only made it harder to wash.
And that's in the places where we had running water. I'm not even going to get started on the bucket hair washing.
Anyway, things didn't work out for the year-long trip, but we are making a month-long trip, so I still had to tackle the hair problem. Justin and Juma have it easy; we just shaved their heads to 1/8 to 1/4 inch long, and they are good to go.
So I got up the guts and drove to a hair salon, a printed out picture of a hair cut I had in mind. A very short hair cut.
After much protest and worry and fixing and "Are you sure?"s from the hair stylist, I escaped with a decent hair cut. This is the first time I've cut my hair above my jaw line.
The first person I saw at home was Juma. His response was, "Mom! You look weird!" That didn't do much to inspire confidence, but the rest of the family assures me the cut is great.
It's growing on me.
Wednesday, May 21, 2008
bad news
Well, it's been pretty hectic and stressful here lately. Justin's mom, Vicki, has been sick for over a month now, and we found out last week that she has cancer. It isn't really clear yet what type she has, but we know she's going to need chemotherapy and radiation to follow up from last week's surgery.
She was in the hospital for a week, and had family and friends there to help her out. Since Monday she's been home, and we've been helping out, along with Justin's sister Andria. When the pain medications are actually working, Vicki feels pretty good and we've been spending as much time with her as possible (before we head to Zanzibar in a week).
Some people have been asking how Juma is doing with all this. Basically, he knows Grandma is sick, and he could tell you how cancer means "cells aren't listening to their DNA and are just making more and more without stopping," but he is fairly clueless about it, really.
Thank you for the well wishes, thoughts, flowers, texts, and support that have come this way. Vicki really appreciates the prayers, and knowing she has people who are thinking of her.
She was in the hospital for a week, and had family and friends there to help her out. Since Monday she's been home, and we've been helping out, along with Justin's sister Andria. When the pain medications are actually working, Vicki feels pretty good and we've been spending as much time with her as possible (before we head to Zanzibar in a week).
Some people have been asking how Juma is doing with all this. Basically, he knows Grandma is sick, and he could tell you how cancer means "cells aren't listening to their DNA and are just making more and more without stopping," but he is fairly clueless about it, really.
Thank you for the well wishes, thoughts, flowers, texts, and support that have come this way. Vicki really appreciates the prayers, and knowing she has people who are thinking of her.
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