mosquitoes, crabs, and acting out

It's fun and interesting being back in Pemba. We recognize so many people, and they remember us, too. It seems that very little has changed; most of the people work in the same shops, and all the shops are still there. The food costs a little more money, but is still quite cheap (for us). All the married women have at least one more kid, and just can't figure out why we haven't provided Juma a sibling yet. Everyone here wants lots of kids--many have around 10.

I met the perfect contact for my research, and he's helping me out a lot. I was pretty intimidated coming here and just trying to start my project, but I feel like things are working out well. This time, I am researching medications for HIV/AIDS, such as the barriers to taking them, how people access them, etc. Partly because of this, I've finally been given a nickname: Bi Kidawa. It means Little Ms. Medicine. I like the name a lot, and am proud to have a nickname. Anyone who is anyone has a nickname or two. Also, I am starting Arabic lessons tonight. The teacher is a woman in the neighborhood who teaches children to read the Quran. Should be fun.

Juma is adjusting. Slowly. He's feeling the culture shock, and has so far refused to make friends of the kids in the neighborhood. He gets along with Justin's friends fine, but is too scared to hang out with children because he forgot his Swahili. He's eating the food well enough (he's always been a small eater), and is fine with his mosquito net, his strange clothes (always long-sleeve button-ups, long pants, shoes and socks, even in the heat, to protect against mosquitoes), and the house.

His favorite activities are playing video games (in the house), going on evening walks to buy bread and octopus (his favorite food here!), and looking for crabs in the mangrove swamp at the end of the ocean. We snapped some pictures of crab-finding at both low tide and high tide; we will post some as soon as possible.

Justin is also doing well. His old friends have invited him to play basketball once again, and he is a wonderful stay-at-home dad for Juma. I have to go!